When I reached the Maha Buddhagayar Pagoda, which is very similar to a Buddhagayar Pagoda of India, located in 'Winnka' (meaning 'Nga Pyaw San Yar') Mon village, I heard the voice of an old woman praying from the south of the Pagoda. The Pagoda is opposite Sankhalaburi on the Thai-Burma border and five hours from western Bangkok by bus. The voice praying was not strange for the writer who has grown up in Burma but it was a little surprising hearing it there. The voce was the same as that of aged people in Burma. Strangely only one old woman was praying.

In Burma, aged Mon people used to offer food to Lord Buddha and monks in the morning. And then, they used to look for flowers. After which they rested at lunch time and later created flower rings. In the evening, they went to monasteries and prayed there. Likewise, I understood that the old woman in the Maha Buddhagayar Pagoda was doing what elderly Mons and others do in Burma.

She used to pray every day in the pagoda except the days she was sick. She prayed weekly with 10 other aged people on religious days, except four times a month, she explained.

Although cultural images were not visible on normal days in Winnka Mon village, we could see Mon costumes (in red and white colour) the whole day on the religious days and Friday. On religious days, Mon people wore traditional Mon costumes and offered foods to monks. On Friday, we could see that about 2,000 school girls and boys in traditional Mon costumes (in red and white colour) in the village. Especially girls here are more polite than girls in Burma because they wear sarongs when they go to monasteries.

They were once refugees. Their generation got the chance to study in Thai schools (for labuor force).  The population in this village is about 8,000. But, they could only live on the soil of Sayadaw U Ottama, who passed away on 18 October 2006 and built the longest wood-bridge in Thailand. The bridge is a lifeline for Mon people.

At the gate of the village is a sign-board with the words 'Mon cultural village' in Thai language. Likewise, street names and other announcements are written in Thai language in the village. The 'Winnka' village is the convergent area of both Thailand-born-Mons and Burma-born-Mons.

They held a religious ceremony on 14 September 2008. Like Mon people in Burma, they traditionally celebrate "Posamut Kaban" (Thinnbaw Swam Tin) which is being held for 500 years. This kind of celebration is held only by the Mon race. This 'Thinnbaw Swam Tin' ceremony is being held in 'Winnka' village for 15 years.

Religious connection

Mons traditionally celebrate 'Thinnbaw Swam Tin' (food for monks on the ship) was mostly established in the monastery or near the pagoda. In Burma, the day of building a ship for offering foods is on 14 Tawtha Linn La Sann (the day before full moon day). On that day, young boys have to go to the forest for bringing wood and bamboo, and young girls have to find flowers and fragrant items. Elderly people guide them to make umbrellas and traditional things. It's crowded with young boys and girls until it's finished. In 'Winnka Mon village', middle age people built a ship about 8 feet wide, 18 feet long and about 10 feet in height in front of the Maha Buddhagaya Pagoda in spite of rains outside. 100 religious-poles about 8 foot high and other umbrellas and fragrant things were taken by girls group on duty. Thailand-born-Mons and Burma-born-Mons could exchange ideas and visions in this 15th anniversary of 'Thinnbaw Swam Tin' ceremony.

Is it focal a point?

In the past, villagers worked in gardens and cultivated firms. Now young people have been migrating to cities because of difficulties in getting jobs. Therefore, a few people could go back to their village for participating in the 'Thinnbaw Swam Tin' ceremony, said Mi Alanyar.

An in charge of holding celebrations, Mi Alanyar said that "it's the first time to take "Kutho" together for both Winnka young Mons and Bangkok-born-Mons. This year young people participated in most in the ceremonies. One strange thing was that Thai-born-Mons use a mixture of Thai language when they speak.

According to Nai Hkaytat, the owner of M (Mon) Tour, although 'Thinnbaw Swam Tin' ceremony was held in Ban Karat Mon village near Bangkok in the past, now this kind of religious ceremony is only held in Winnka village in Thailand. Therefore, he could take 'Kutho' with other visitors every year. "Like this kind of Mon traditional ceremony is fading out in Thailand but Mon people in Burma continue to hold this ceremony", he said.

Brief history of ceremony

'Thinnbaw Swam Tin' ceremony was started by Mon people in 1019-10 in the Buddhist era. It's was the traditional ceremony celebrated during the rule of Dhhamazaydi the Honsawaddy King. The celebration was intended for a ship, which was among two ships (Seittaraduta and Ramaduta) sent by the king to Sri Lanka and could not get back to Honsawaddy but returned safely to Honsawaddy port.

King Dhhamazaydi built a temporary ship with bamboos and papers near the river bank and put 1000 of fragrant things, flowers, and fruits as offering of foods and sent the ship into the sea with swearing words. In a short time, the lost ship, Ramaduta, was safely back to port again. By refereeing to this event, Mon people use to hold 'Thinnbaw Swam Tin' celebration on full moon day of Tawthalinn every year.

Their commitment

"I was born in the old Winnka village. All could speak Mon language because of the Sayadaw's (abbot) efforts. The Mons, who were born in this village, did not submit as Thai Mons but they were also not from Burma. They only submitted as they are 'Winnka' Mons. When we met with Thai-Mons, we thought we were not Thai-Mons. But, we are 'Winnka' Mons", said Nai Sein Aung, (44) and a member of the village administration.

"We could persuade visitors with the Winnka's 'Thinnbaw Swam Tin' ceremony, which was a significant ceremony in Thailand. This kind of religious ceremony has not been seen in Thailand. We are very pleased to hold this kind of religious ceremony which has not been seen in Thailand and it's our own traditional ceremony. For instance, we would like to show Nyaung Yay Thoum Pwe, Nivan Zay Pwe, among otherswhich have not been seen in Thailand. There are many visitors participating this year. The big aim is to cling to our own culture," he explained.

To build

'Swam Tin Thinnbaw' (the ship) is built with bamboos, papers, and woods. The aim of using more bamboos is not to sink the ship. If the ship is to tour for receiving food, it has wheels at the bottom. If the ship is not sent to river or sea, it's built with 2 to 3 chairs linked together and the ship is cloured. The ship is built in a safe place or in the monastery. In some towns, the name 'Ramaduta' was written on the ship. Most ships are sent to sea.

Belief

Monks and some scholars can explain about the 500-year old traditional 'Thinnbaw Swam Tin' Pwe. Most Mon people, at least, understand that they are trying to make 'Kutho' for fulfilling their wishes. This kind of activity strengthens their belief.

Most Mon families in Burma, at least one of them have been working abroad either legally or illegally. Offering food on the ship for 'Kutho' is intended for the person who is away from the family and for the person to return safely home. The ceremony is more meaningful for the person who works on fishing boats or travels on waterways.

Differences

Even though the ceremony is held at 4 or 5 am before dawn it is either the ship is touring or anchoring at a temple or at a pagoda in some villages. In 'Winnka' village, the ceremony started at 5 am. When the ceremony started, monks read out the Dhhama sutra near the ship. After that, villagers released various hot air balloons in various shapes in the sky. I saw that a group of young boys brought colourful hot air balloons to the compound of the pagoda in vehicles. Then they released the hot air balloons. When they released the hot air balloons, they attached small fire-oil-port and small fireworks at the bottom of the balloons. After that, some villages send the ship into the sea early in the morning. In Winnka, villagers used to send the ship to the sea on the day after the full moon day at around 8 am.

The distinctive thing about 'Thinbaw Swam Tin' ceremony in Winnka is that all monasteries in Sankhalaburi are invited to receive offering foods, honey bees, butters, sugars among others. The donation is made in the compound of the Maha Buddhagaya pagoda.

I saw that the Thai special task force and U Mahasuchat, the new abbot of Viwaikarama temple, in charge of the ceremony moving together around the pagoda at night until the ceremony was over.

They have been attempting to practice religious matters like Mon people in Burma. Even more, they are trying to show similar things and unity among Mons who are separated by the border.